Visiting the South - Social Observations from Dixie

I want to take a diversion away from reporting on the site seeing and eating Diane and I did last month in the southeast to offer up some observations about life in Dixie...and how it differs from the northwest.

I'd like to first say that I like the fact that the south is different than the north or the west. More and more, the U.S. is starting to look the same no matter where you go, people are starting to sound the same, regional differences are disappearing and choice of eating/drinking/accommodation is becoming more homogeneous. I love the fact that we were able to  go someplace within our own borders that offered up a different take on America.

With that, here are some of my top observations...

I - Southern Hospitality is Real

People in the south are generally much more approachable and willing to help out a stranger or tourist. Quick with a smile and an eagerness to help out, southerners seem proud of their culture and the cities they live in and they're pleased to talk with you. Up here in Seattle, there's much more of a keep-to-yourself culture that stands in contrast to what we experienced down south. I suppose you get used to what you grow up with or what you're personality type connects with. For me, chalk the friendliness of southerns up as a strength over the northwest.

II - They Grow 'Em Big Down South

There are a lot of overweight people in the south. While I understand and agree that a certain percentage of people simply are genetically predisposed to carrying more body fat than others, the fact that so many southerners are obese is evidence to me that this is not the main reason America is so heavy. No, the reason that Americans - and apparently a high number of southerners - are so overweight is because...get this...they eat way too much, way too many fatty and unhealthy foods, and they do not exercise.

While Seattle and the northwest has big people too, it's not so pervasive and a hallmark of the culture as it is in the south. Perhaps its the diet most people have here, perhaps its because there are so many active things to do outdoors in the northwest, temperate weather or maybe its because more people here exercise than most parts of the country. Not sure. But, the size of the people IS a difference between the northwest and the south.

III - The Southern Male Wears A Uniform

After about two days down south, I realized that most of the men we were seeing were wearing very similar attire. We're used to seeing a pretty eclectic mix of fashion as we navigate our jobs and lives here in Seattle, but it became clear that this was not so down south. Here are some of the "uniforms" I observed so many southern males wearing:

• Uniform #1 - The Dude. Baseball cap (with sunglasses perched on the brim), t-shirt, shorts, white tennis shoes with ankle socks (or sometimes just flip-flops). To maximize this look, the southern male very often accentuates it with a mustache or goatee. I'd estimate that 30% of guys you see in the south are rocking this fashion statement at any one time. Any time you get near a tourist attraction, bar or casual dining establishment the percentage jumps radically to about 70%.

• Uniform #2 - The Polo-Phone Combo. Colorful polo shirt, khaki pants, braddedleather belt, leather shoes, cell phone clipped to the hip. This is a major look for the southern male too. I'd estimate you're looking at about 20% of southern males are sporting this slightly upgraded look.
• Uniform #3 - Just Out of Bed. Rumpled shorts and t-shirt and floppy unkempt hair. Perhaps not a southern specialty, but with I'd say you see about 10% of guys in this type of get-up regularly there.

So, right there that's about 60% of males walking around the south in one of these "uniforms" with some cross-pollination of these three looks too that probably account for another 10%. The other 30% are a mixed bag with more universal looks such as business formal, hipster, bohemian, etc.
What does this say about southerner guys? To me it's perhaps an indication of a desire to "fit in" or there is a severe lack of fashion sense - or maybe both. Any way you slice it, the southern male wearing a "uniform" was one of the most vivid observations of the whole trip.

IV - Southerners Show You What They're All About
I noticed that a lot of people - many more than where we're from - were sporting shirts or caps that displayed a name or logo of some group or entity they were proud of. Most of this was sports-related themes of course, but schools, companies, the military and locations were well represented too.
Also, within the sports-related shirts or caps, there seemed to be a very high percentage of "champions" attire declaring that whatever team they supported had won whatever championship and who they beat. The message here seemed to be, "we're the best...respect me."

Anyway, it just made an impression on me that a large number of people seemed to be making the decision that they would wear clothes that communicated support for something vs. something that may make them look more sophisticated, interesting or cool.

V- Pickup Trucks
That's it. Just pickup trucks. There are a lot of 'em in the south. More than here in Seattle where most people tend to have BMWs, Mercedes, Subarus (or similar), SUVs or perhaps a fuel efficient city car. Sure, the truck quotent goes up in more rural areas here, but overall I wouldn't call the northwest a "truck culture." But it is down south. It doesn't matter if your in a city like Charleston or out in the countryside, there are a lot of pickup truck rolling around. People seem to identify with the identity of the pickup truck - tough, rugged, not gonna take any crap and get out of my way.

VI - History Has A Presence
The cities we visited have a long and much older history than what's out on the west coast. Charleston and Savannah, for example, have a British colonial history, American Revolutionary history, slavery history, Civil War history that, say, Seattle has none of.  I mean, in Seattle schools you learn about the Civil War and slavery. In Charleston you can literally step foot where that war started, visit a former slave market and see what plantation life was like for slaves...all in one afternoon. Throw in the old buildings, cobbled streets and all the thought of all the things that happened in and around them and you have history staring you in the face every day. I really liked experiencing this inside the borders of the U.S. rather than in another country.

Yes, a lot of stuff happened in these cities over the past three hundred years. And, over those years a certain sense of that history settles on the culture there - helping create the social and political and makeup of the region.  Like anywhere, a region's history is reflected in current day culture. In my mind then, it's no surprise then that an area with history built on religious settlement, slavery, anti-Union sentiment and an agricultural economy would today be so very  -politically, religiously and socially. So, beyond buildings and sites, the history of the south has a less concrete but equally real impact on society there.

VII - Women Dress Up
Unlike their male counterparts, women down south tend to dress nicer and make an effort to look good for themselves, their significant others and the public. You may not share any one woman's sense of style, but you can tell they're putting forth the effort...and much more than the guy they're with or hoping to attract.

VI - Some Possible Conclusions
We had a great time down south and I am really pleased to have visited an area unlike home for all the reasons I've described in my other posts. By experiencing different places around the world, you become a more informed and enlightened person.

In thinking about what the common elements of the observations I've made above might be, I'll offer the following. I might be wrong, and I'm no social scientist, but...

It seems that a lot of the social behaviors I observed seemed to be attempts to project "importance," "authority," or "respect." And what could be motivating that? Or, at least more than in other places around the U.S. that I've been? Well, my theory is that many southerners are operating with some level of an inferiority complex and that their behaviors are an attempt to overcome those doubts. This is not something they may even be doing consciously. It's just part of the culture. 

Sure, southerners will say "no way," and they are proud of where they're from. I get that. But think about it. You're talking about a less wealthy, less educated, less opportunity-rich area of the nation with less natural beauty and resources than many other parts of the country. And, it's an area of the nation that was defeated in the Civil War (and believe me, that's still a sore subject 140 years later).

All that could add up to a longstanding culture of inferiority that manifests itself in overcompensating behavior. Well, like I said, it's just a theory. But, it's based on my first-hand observations. If you have a different perspective, let me know.

China Report #4 - The Great Wall

Two Hikes On Unrestored Sections Offer More Adventure Than The Tourist Zone 

Ah, the Great Wall. An icon of China. To some, it's a symbol of that country's rich history and a monument to the grandeur the human mind can conceive of and the physical endurance needed to build massive structures. To others, it's a symbol of Imperial excess and a monument to folly. No matter what you believe, however, the spectacular nature of the Great Wall is self evident. 

On our recent trip to China, my wife and I had the good fortune to see the Great Wall up close and personal on two hikes along unrestored and un-touristed sections. Specifically, we hiked a section of the wall between Gu Bei and Jin Shan Ling on one day, and then a section of the Jin Shan Ling part of the wall the next. While I've never been to the completely restored and extremely crowded section of the Wall closest to Beijing where most tourists go, my recommendation is to skip that and go to these unrestored sections for a more authentic and equally breathtaking experience.  Any reputable tour company can arrange it for you - we went with REI Adventures - or, if you know where you're going, you can get where you need to go on your own.

Mongolians, Peanut Butter and the Chinese Army

Our first hike took place on a hazy, overcast and muggy day in the rural border areas of Beijing province. Most people think of Beijing the city, but it's also a very large province, and our hike was at a section of the wall at the edge of this.

Proceeding off the main road and through a small village on our way to the Wall, our 14-person hiking entourage encountered a problem. The local farmer lady did not want us passing through "her" land to get to the Wall. While nobody in China owns any land - it's owned by the government - this lady was adamant that we were NOT going any further. An argument ensued in which, in the end, we were allowed to pass. Turns out that the woman thought that we careless westerners would stomp all over her crops. It also came out that the woman was of Mongolian decent, did not really like westerners, and - perhaps more to the point - did not necessarily like our ethnically Han Chinese guides. I suspect our guides paid her off, but I'm not sure. In any case, we were on our way up to our destiny of hiking one of the world's most recognizable structures. Speaking of how recognizable the Great Wall is, I learned on this trip that the Wall is not - in fact - visible from the Moon. That is a myth, pure and simple.

Eventually, we spied the first crumbly, brick-built and overgrown section of the Wall and climbed up on it. Each and every one of us was simultaneously awed by the history we were literally walking amongst and excited at achieving a lifelong dream of seeing the Wall. During the day, our trail meandered alongside of and on top of the Wall as it snaked over hills, down valleys and around corners. I would call the hike aggressive, but not too difficult.

 We worked up a sweat for sure, but never felt in danger or like any section was too much.  After a couple hours of treading the ramparts that countless Chinese soldiers had inhabited and protected going back through the centuries, we stopped at an old guard tower for a lunch...of peanut butter and jelly sandwiches! Yep, in this very Chinese moment we were having a very American lunch. Surreal? Yes. Ironic? Yes. Highly satisfying? You bet!

After lunch it was more hiking. One of our fellow hikers actually fell off the wall and has the video to prove it - here.  At any rate, later, with a beautiful section of wall laid out in front of us (see picture at right), we saw two figures running along the Wall up ahead - rushing towards an old guard tower (top left of picture) that we ourselves were heading to. Our guide said, "That's the Army, put away your cameras." When you're in China in a remote area and the one Chinese person with you says anything remotely like, "That's the Army, put your cameras away," you do it - quickly. And we did. We then marched forward to our rendezvous with the military. 

Turns out we were near a restricted military zone. And, it also turns out there had been some threats from "Tibetan terrorists" that they would damage the Wall or unfurl a "Free Tibet" sign on it and take a picture for the world to see. While certainly none of us could ever pass for Tibetan anything, I could see why the Chinese army might wonder why a group of foreigners were hiking on the Wall in a rural area near a restricted military zone. For the next hour, the two army soldiers - looking more like 19 year old police cadets - systematically went through all of our bags and all of our cameras to see what we had or may be up to. Satisfied that we were no threat and would leave the area, they let us go. We never felt in any real trouble, but being out in the middle of nowhere with the army investigating you was a little disconcerting. 

We climbed off the wall, hiked through the coutryside and back to our transportation. On the way, we stopped at an old man's house for a visit to see how people in the area lived. To the left, here is a picture of our guide talking to him. I think this picture says a lot about change in China. What do you think?

Beautiful Views on Day Two

Our second hike on the Great Wall was on the Jin Shan Ling section. The weather was nicer clearer and the views spectacular. We encountered no army and no angry Mongolians on this day, just uninterrupted spectacular views of the Wall criss-crossing through the countryside as we hiked up, down and around it. This was a photographer's field day as it seemed no matter which direction you pointed your camera, you would inevitably capture a breathtaking scene. Below are a few examples. See also the first picture at the top of this post.

Truly, the highlights of this day were the unending jaw-dropping views and enjoying time with new friends we now had been with for the better part of two weeks...that, and the satisfaction of buying and drinking an ice cold beer on the Wall from a local man selling snacks out of a pack (not sure how the beer was so cold). 

We ended the long day at the base of the Simatai section of the Wall where all of us decided to head back to our guest house rather than hoist ourselves up another section. To get down, most of us opted for a very fun zip line across a lake and down almost to the guest house - an exhilarating way to end a day on the wall to say the least!

In the end, our Wall experience ranks right up there with the most profound travel experiences my wife and I have ever had. To think about the long history of China and all those slaves, builders, officials, soldiers, officers, enemies and others who trod there, lived there, died there and passed on the Wall to further generations - well, it's just overwhelming. In many ways, the Wall is symbolic for today's China too. 

Traditionally a way of keeping the rest of the world out, the Wall today can be seen as a symbol of the communist government trying to keep out too much political influence lest its hold on power crumble - not too much different than the emperors of old. But, at the same time, the far side of the Wall serves as a metaphor for what the outside world can offer a China craving to modernize and raise the standard of living. Which side will win out?

Who can say? But, one thing I can say for sure is - see the Great Wall if you can, and when you do, bring your hiking boots and take the time to explore the less touristy areas. You'll never regret it.