Exploring Peru - The Series

Thanks to anyone and everyone who checked in on this blog over the past month or so to read about our trip to Peru this past August. I had fun reliving the experience, sharing some knowledge and posting pictures I took.

So that everything can now be gathered into one place, below is an aggregation of the entire series for easier reading now or later. Just click on the headlines to go to those pieces.



EXPLORING PERU - THE SERIES
Series Kickoff & Cusco
Trekking in the Andes Mountains I
Trekking in the Andes Mountains II
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Photo Feature - Peru
Photo Feature - Machu Picchu
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Jungle Trekking & Machu Pichhu
Cusco Again, Lake Titicaca, Home

Details of our trip:

• Dates: August 17-September 2

• Route to get there: Seattle-Dallas-Miami-Lima-Cusco

• Tour service: REI Adventures

• Guide: Miguel

• Cities visited: Cusco, Puno, Lima

• Inca ruins visited: Machu Picchu, Tarawasi, Sacsayhuman fortress, Temple of the Sun in Cusco

• Other: Salkantay Pass at 15,000 feet above sea level

For anyone interested, below are links to other series I've written about other trips we've taken...

Excursion to Egypt

The China Reports

Romania: On the Trail of Dracula

Visiting the U.S. South

La Dolce Vita: Italy

Nothing More American than US Olympic Uniforms Made in China

Turns out that the 2012 U.S. Olympic team uniforms are made in China. Yep. China.

This has, of course, created some outrage and generally appall about how our team's duds are manufactured overseas...and in a communist country to boot.

Well, my opinion is...grow up, there is nothing more American in 2012 than products for the U.S. produced in China. After all, our nation's government, business sector and citizenry have gone out of their way to make that possible. For example...

• Cheap labor. U.S. businesses want it to pad profit margins and "create efficiencies," so they lay off American workers and ship jobs overseas. Like to China. 
• Avoiding regulation. Business wants that too. After all, worrying about environmental impacts of manufacturing, safety standards and work hours for workers are costly...but not in China. 
• Government complicity. Whether it's passively sitting by and watching U.S. businesses move jobs overseas (I mean you Democratic Party) OR actually encouraging it through tax breaks and trade agreements (I'm looking mainly at you Republican Party, but Democrats are not immune)...our government has made it real easy for corporations to move manufacturing to places like China. 
• Cheap products. US consumers want them and clamor to their local WalMart and other such places to get them...but that stuff on those shelves ain't made here in the USA people. The culture of "gimmie cheap" regardless of quality or impact to U.S. jobs by the American consumer is part of the problem. Now, one complicating factor is that the issues raised in the above bullet points have also created a shitty U.S. economy, thus propelling demand for cheap products from "want to have" into virtually "need to have" status for average Americans. Think that's a coincidence? I don't.
• American voters. Fueled and fooled by vague notions of "freedom," "family values," and "small government," a large percentage of U.S. voters keep returning the very politicians to power who create or allow all of the above to happen. 

So, are you pissed off that the U.S. Olympic team uniforms are made in China? That really get under your red, white and blue skin? 

Well, do something about it then. Or shut the F up. 

Think about who you vote for, the ideas you support and what those choices mean for U.S. jobs. Think about buying made in the USA products...literally put your money where your mouth is. Don't like US made goods or think they are too expensive? Then shut up about the issue. And think about getting pissed off at corporations and not "the government" or China.

Italy: La Dolce Vita - The Series

Below is the consolidated and complete series re-capping the Italy portion of our European Trip in the summer of 2011. For the full report on the Romania portion of the trip, go HERE.


Italy: La Dolce Vita - The Series
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• Venice - seeing the sights, great places to eat and the beauty of Venetian canals
• Florence - our afternoon and one evening in this beautiful city
• Photo Feature - a set of photos I took while in Italy
• Tuscany - we drive south of Florence and spend a few days soaking up rural Tuscany
• Rome - The Eternal City hits and highlights

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Also, for those interested, you can read other stories of our travels in a number of series that I've written. For example, check these out...

Excursion To Egypt

Visiting the U.S. South

The China Reports

Shanghai Takes The Stage - Expo 2010

The big "world's fair" called Expo 2010 kicks off in Shanghai, China on Saturday, May 1.

Diane and I visited the city as part of our trip to China in the spring of 2008 and were blown away in many ways.

Whether it was the historic old quarter that is quickly disappearing, the modern new Pudong section, the colonial British Bund or tree lined French Concession, the pollution, the super fast maglev train, the hustle and bustle or the food...Shanghai really delivered a major impression. If Beijing serves as "the Washington, DC" of China, Shanghai is clearly "the New York" of the country.

At any rate, the Expo starts this weekend, and I've heard it reported that 95 percent of all attendees will be Chinese. While world's fairs seemed to have lost their world appeal in about 1962, there is still something about this one that is interesting. Perhaps its just the spectacle of it all and "the next big thing" China is doing to establish itself on the world stage following the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.

Shanghai is full of visual treats, and I'm sure all the visitors will get an eyeful not only from the splashy national pavilions, but also the normal city itself.

For those interested in a glimpse of Shanghai, below are four pictures I took when we were there, but you can see some more I captured by clicking HERE. More pictures of other parts of China that I took are HERE, HERE and HERE.

Additionally, because the pollution in Shanghai is so prevalent, I wrote a few thoughts about that upon returning from our trip. You can read those entries HERE and HERE.

Photos: View through the pollution of Pudong from the Bund, one of the remaining alleyways in Old Shanghai, the grandeur of The Bund at night and a psychedelic experience inside The Shanghai Tourist Tunnel underneath the Huangpu river.

Know Your History - Why the Tienanmen Crackdown is Relevant Today

June 4, 2009 marks the 20th anniversary of the Chinese government crack-down on the massive pro-democracy protests that were happening in Tienanmen Square in Beijing.

These events are important to remember and relevant today in my estimation for two reasons:

1. The violent crack down shows what the Chinese communist government is willing to do if challenged.


2. The protests led directly to an opening up of the Chinese economy and the resulting boom that has, lets be honest, a HUGE impact on the U.S. and world economy.

Diane and I were in China last year and visited Tienanmen Square. You can see some of the pictures I took while there by clicking here.

In terms of what happened and why it's relevant today, the story goes like this...

In the spring of 1989, students and others filled the huge plaza in central Beijing to protest the controlling government that was presiding over a faltering, iffy economy on top of heavy restrictions on personal freedom, speech and other human rights.

Protesters initially gathered in mid-April to mourn the death of pro-democracy and anti-corruption official Hu Yaobang. Focus of the protest began to crystallize around desire for national democratic reform and greater economic freedoms. The crowd got bigger, louder and more determined...however, it remained a non-violent protest.

All of this happened in a year - 1989 - in which other communist governments had failed (East Germany, Czechoslovakia and Romania for example). With this in mind, and not wanting to lose their grasp on power, the communist government of China decided the protest could last no longer and "cleared" Tienanmen Square with army soldiers and tanks. People died. Lots of them. They were shot, run over and beaten. Many more were jailed or never heard from again. This was a naked power play by the Chinese government to crush dissent. So, we now know what they're willing to do if things come to a critical head again. We also know their army is willing to participate.

However, soon after the end of the protest, the government did something else too. It decided that instead of giving in on controls over speech, rights and democracy...it would greatly loosen economic controls and open up China to free-enterprise and market economies. This enabled the big and enduring economic boom in China that is still happening today.

As a result, today - and believe me it's evident over there - the Chinese are very focused on amassing wealth and material possessions. They are not as concerned over freedom of speech or democracy. Their perspective might be, "I don't mind government control of the media or that I can only vote for one party if I can drive my brand new car from my new high rise condo to my tech job."

Of course other big outcomes of the economic decisions made in the wake of the Tienanmen Square episode have been US companies moving jobs from North America to China for the cheap labor and Chinese ownership of US debt. To me, these are clearly not good developments given our country's inability to balance these moves out with new job creation and fiscal responsibility here.

500+ Views on Photostream Sunday - Why?

Photos on my Flickr Photostream received an all-time-one-day high of 502 views yesterday, April 12...and I can't figure out why.

I think I've taken some great pictures over the years and that I've grouped the 557 I've uploaded so far into sets that make sense. But, most days I get somewhere between 20 and 40 views. Occasionally there will be a spike in views up to 100 or so, only to return back to the normal 20, 30, 40 range within a day.

Yesterday, however the view totals shot way, way up. By using the Flickr stats tool, it appears that people were looking at all kinds of pictures - so no discernible patterns. Pictures I took in China seemed to have a few more views than others, but again, pictures of all different subjects and locations were viewed.

It also looks like most people came to my Photostream through searches on Flickr itself, with a few more coming in via Yahoo! and Google.

Anybody have any theories? Could it be that randomly an abnormally high number of people found my photos on Sunday? Or, could there be a reason? Someone or some group specifically looking at my pictures? Or, looking at subjects that I have well represented?

I welcome any guesses or insights from people who know the ways of search engine or Flickr.

The Spookiest Picture We've Ever Seen

Diane and I have traveled all over the world. We've been to Europe, Asia, India, Africa, etc. In each of these places we've experienced all kinds of art and cultural traditions we'd never seen before. And all of that was expected and enjoyable. We've been to the world's great museums such as the Louvre, d'Orsay, Pompidou, Prado, MoMa, Guggenheim, Chicago Art Institute and many others. 

However, none of that...none of what we saw or anticipated in those places and times could prepare us for perhaps the freakiest, weirdest and spooky piece of art we've ever seen.

No. For indeed, when Diane and I were on our REI Adventures tour of China last year, we encountered a picture so mind-warping that, well, see for yourself...

That's right. This disturbing image hung over our bed in the motel - more of a roadhouse - that our group stayed in near the Great Wall. Look at this thing. There's so much going on. What's with the grapes? How about the matching Snoopy outfits? How random is that?! What's with the Astro-Turf and the superimposed all-American Midwest house as the background? And most importantly, just what the "F" are those babies smiling about? What could this all mean?

Needless to say, we quickly took the picture down, turned it around and set it against the wall on the floor. There was absolutely no way we were going to let these little Chuckies jump down in the middle of the night and murder us in our sleep...for that was the only rational explanation either of us could come up with for the existence of this picture.

Safely locked in the picture frame up against the wall, these two never did give us any trouble and we returned them to their perch on the wall just before we left for our next destination.

OK, weird enough, right? Dodged that bloodfest. Well, flash forward to today. I get an e-mail from one of our friends from the REI trip who also saw this picture in our room (and who was freaked out by it too may I add). He says he just watched a TV program about Iraq the other day and lo-and-behold, in the background of some footage inside an Iraqi's home is...you guessed it...evil baby art! 

Here it is...

See that calendar behind the guy. Look familiar? Could those be grapes the baby is holding? Is the baby not sitting on Astro-Turf grass? What. The. F. 

So now we know that this baby art is not just a China thing. At minimum it's a China/Iraq thing and probably more like an Asia/Mideast thing all together. But still...what does it mean? What does it symbolize?

I invite anyone to check into this and let us all know. Seriously. I want to know. Is it a fertility thing? A "happy home" thing? Something else? 

In the meantime, until we know more, I can still only conclude as I did in the back forty of China that there is evil intent in this...the spookiest picture we've ever seen.

Marc's 2008 Year In Review

Hard as it to believe, another year has clipped on by. Now, humanity is looking at the end of a decade with 2009 coming up like a freight train hurtling down the tracks in a driving midnight rain on its way to an unknown destination.

The last week of any year can serve as a moment to reflect on what has happened and re-count the best and worst milestones of the previous 12 months. The media does it and I'm sure they'll recap all the key events that most of us know about or care about. 

However, life happens much closer to the street than those type of reports. With that in mind, below is my own personal rear view mirror-gazing "best events of 2008." Some of these items fit into bigger issues, news and the ways of the world, and some are just personal. But either way, they were the key points of the year just gone by to me. Maybe you'll agree with some of these or see common ground with events in your own life this past year.

Marc's 2008 Year In Review:

Another year of wedded bliss. Seriously, Diane and I have a great marriage, but you know, you have to say that keeping a relationship going well over the years requires work. Making it to our eleventh year as a married couple (14 together total) in 2008 is definitely a big deal. To celebrate, we spent a weekend together in New York City - eating, drinking, site seeing and shopping our hearts out for two fun-filled days in early October. 

Our trip to China. What can I say? This was a major highlight of 2008 for Diane and me. We traveled all the way to China, saw the major sites one thinks of (Great Wall, Forbidden City, Buried Terracotta Army, Shanghai, etc.) But, it was better than that for us because we got off the beaten tourist track to hike and bike areas visitors don't normally go. And, we did it with a very small group of people and formed new friendships from that experience too. A full re-cap of our adventures with links to photos is available here.

Barrack Obama elected President of the United States of America. This was huge for me, and I believe the nation. After eight years of...being kind here...very, very poor leadership and judgement from George W. Bush and the Republican Party, America was in an equally sad and predictable hole and change had to come. Fortunately for us, the change came in the form of Obama and his appeal to our better natures and higher aspirations for our families, our communities and our country. The alternatives of more of the same in for form of a McCain presidency or turning the clocks back to the 1990s with the Clinton crowd (who, to be fair had a pretty dang good track record) were both pretty unappealing - at least to me. Instead, we got something new. At last, a 21st century leader with progressive ideas and agenda. 

I have lots of posts on this blog about Obama and the election, so check those out if you want. I think when it's all said and done, the presidential election will prove to be the most important event for more people on this planet than any other single happening. I believe - and lets hope - it is all for the best.

I met Mick Jones from The Clash. The show is reviewed in my article here. But, the reason it makes my 2008 best-of list is that Mick is a guy whose career and exploits I've followed and admired for some time, and he started my favorite band of all time, The Clash. So, meeting him - even just to say hello, thank him for the show and good memories and urge him to continue recording - was a big highlight of my year.

Weathering the recession - so far. I still have a job. So does Diane. That cannot be said for a disturbingly increasing number of Americans as wave after punishing wave of economic realities blast through the sugary false foundations of "capitalism" as envisioned and championed by big business, the rich and their lackeys in DC. Despite this, I'm cautiously optimistic about 2009. Fingers crossed. 

Re-connecting with old friends. 2008 proved to be great year for re-connecting with some very important people from my youth. These friendships were re-kindled through two primary means - my 20 year high school reunion and Facebook. Reunions are traditionally places to re-meet people you spent 3-4 years with back when you were teenagers and re-live some of the glory days...and maybe if you're lucky...you become friends again with a couple of those people. For me, I re-connected with (upon reflection) my best friend from high school through the reunion. So, chalk up the reunion as worth it for me this time.

The other way I found long lost friends was Facebook. Now, I'm not big into online social networking as I think anyone who looks in on those networks can see that a lot of people apparently have a LOT of time on their hands to update the world on their every movement, thought and picture of themselves - a major display of narcissism is evident all over the place. However, I did join Facebook on a whim as I was trying to find out more about online networking for my job. But I have to say, I'm glad I did as I've re-connected with some lost friends from high school, college and previous jobs. The technology works for me as I'm able to see what these people are up to, interact with them and keep some level of friendship going. And, in a couple of cases, actually meet up and re-ignite friendships. 

Mortality reinforced. 2008 proved to be a year of loss that sent a clear message that our mortality is all too real and fleeting. On Diane's side of the family one of her cousins, Glen, and her grandmother, Louise, both died. Glen's death was much more unexpected at 53 years of age, however, both people played a significant role in the life of the family and their loss leaves a hole. 

We all think we're going to live to be 90-something and die peacefully in our sleep after a long, rich life...but each year deaths like these keep proving this notion wrong. You think you know, but you don't know. Diane and I will miss the departed, but also take it as a lesson to live life as best and as full as you can now. Enjoy the people you know, explore, don't live in fear, learn, love and have as good at time as possible when you can.

Our trip to Banff, Canada. I put this trip on the list for 2008 for several reasons. First, the astounding natural beauty (pictures I took can be seen here) of the area served as a strong reminder of how wonderful and fragile our plan is. Second, that same beauty provided the backdrop and playground for us to hike, sight see and enjoy the "great outdoors" as we so much love to do. And third, we went there over the U.S. Fourth of July holiday weekend. This in and of itself provided some context for reflection which can be read in my post here. 

Discovering Matt's In The Market and Senor Moose Cafe restaurants. If variety is the spice of life, then finding great new restaurants helps build the diversity and power of that "spice." Or at least that's one way of saying that discovery a new place to eat (at least new to us) is one our favorite things. In 2008, there were several such discoveries, but the top two were Matt's In The Market in downtown Seattle and The Senor Moose Cafe in Ballard. 

Matt's is a classy but hip space overlooking the Pike Place Market with a menu that is equal parts innovative and delectable. Whether it's sea scallops, duck, lamb, salmon or one of the many other selections on offer, Matt's serves up a very memorable palate of flavors you'll be talking about long afterwards. The other "new" discovery worth writing about is Senor Moose. Billed as "Mexican Mexican Food," I can't disagree that the chef's approach is much more true to what you'd get in a restaurant frequented by locals in Mexico than the upscale and revisionist Mexican on offer in other places in Ballard and nationally. The Moose is a small, friendly and homey place with a friendly manager/bartender, amble seating at the counter and a huge menu offering exquisite flavors and spices that will have you coming back. No reservations, and sometimes you have to wait...but have one of their delicious margaritas while doing so to take the edge off and begin to ponder the menu for what you'll order when your time comes. Check this place out.

My new iMac. I hesitated to put this one on the list as it may come off as a bit materialistic..."I got a new iMac." But, I decided to include it because it has been a springboard for me doing a lot of new things this year that I really, really enjoy. In particular, using the great tools and features of the Mac and related software for the Mac, I've started this blog, scanned and cataloged my old film negatives into high resolution digital files and created my Flickr Photostream...which in turn has resulted in getting a couple of my pictures published. Each year, I try to do new things. You know, broaden my horizons or do something I've wanted to for a long time. The iMac has been key to this in 2008, so at the risk of sounding like a shill for Apple...getting their computer is in fact a highlight of my year.

So there you have it. Ten highlights of my hear. Sure, there were other thrills and wonderful happenings along the way, but in the end I feel that a year in which you're on balance, happy, healthy, employed, trying new things, meeting new people, and rewarded for your curiosity can be counted as a good one.

By those measures, I'd rate 2008 - stresses and all - as a pretty dang good year.

No Country for Old Men (Or Old Ideas)

The Republican convention has just wrapped up. John McCain delivered his speech pretty well and the conservative party have had their say.


While there are many, many issues that could be debated about what has been said by the GOP this week (many instances of utter and shameless hypocrisy come to mind), the thing that the convention and especially John McCain's speech drove home to me quite clearly is...


The last thing our country needs right now in a leader is a rich old man espousing old, disproven ideas that have directly led the huge problems our nation now faces.


Whether it's the economy, the Iraq war, relations with China and Russia, healthcare, jobs, energy policy, environmental policy...all of these things are spectacularly worse than they were eight years ago specifically because of the leadership, action (or inaction in many cases) and the so called "judgement" of Bush, the Republicans and definitely John McCain.


All I could think about each time that McCain made a point in his speech about what he was going to do to solve our problems was that he is the head of the party that created these very ills and he was offering nothing new - same old Republican punch lines. And lets face it, the Republicans have really been running things for much longer than the last eight years. They controlled Congress from 1995-2006 and the Presidency for 20 of the last 28 years.

We need new ideas, new people and change. Twenty six year DC insider John McCain literally goes around the country promising more of the same.


I can't vote for that and won't.

Further, because the Republicans have so totally failed with their policies I genuinely think those deciding to vote for McCain are in fact putting some very narrow interest - anti-abortion, lower corporate taxes, oil interests, some vaugue notion of family values - ahead of the overall good of the nation. The opposite of the "Country First" mantra of the Republicans. How else can you explain signing up for the exact some thing that got us into this mess. Or, McCain voters are making their judgements on some very, very subjective criteria like...he was a POW or he seems like a nice guy. Using that type of criteria got us George W. Bush.


Lets not repeat that again.

Is beach volleyball the most popular sport in the world?

OK, so the Olympic Games in Beijing, China are about half over. See my China preview here.

The two major conclusions I have come to from tuning in to GE TV (NBC) so far are:

• Michael Phelps is an unbelievable Olympic athlete the likes of which we won't see again in a long time if ever
  
• Beach volleyball must be the most important, popular and entertaining sport in the entire world

On this second point, how else can you explain that every time you turn on a broadcast of the Games day or night huge chunks of time are filled up showing beach volleyball matches like Austria vs. Latvia, Australia vs. China and...most often of all, oh how painfully often...the US women's team vs. anybody?

Is it really just as simple as NBC feels that the American masses want to see scantily clad men and women (especially scantily clad women) athletes bouncing around on the sand? Or, similarly, do they KNOW that's what Americans want to watch and can charge the highest advertising rates for adverts during that coverage?

Hey, I think volleyball is a cool sport, and clearly the athletes involved in beach volleyball deserve all the credit for doing so well. But come on. Instead of the incessant beach volleyball coverage, lets see some other stuff - ping pong, shooting, more track and field, diving, soccer, regular volleyball, water polo, etc.

In the end, it's a shame that NBC feel coverage needs to be calibrated to continually meet the most base instincts of humanity (sex) rather than the higher minded beliefs (competition) that the Olympics are supposed to be about.

Olympics Primer on China

The China Reports

The Olympic Games in Beijing, China have kicked off and are now in full swing.

To help others get in the mood and find out more about the host country, I've brought together all my recent posts on China here in one spot for those of you who might want an alternate view of China than what you're going to get from NBC.

Having just visited extensively in China this past May, these first-hand reports, photos and observations are an assessment of what my wife Diane and I saw, experienced and thought about while touring the country. So, settle in, click on the headlines to read more, look at pictures, and learn from...

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***THE CHINA REPORTS***

China Report #1 - The Forbidden City
Entryway to the Past is Also a Connection to Today's China

China Report #2 - Mt. Hua Shan
Hike on Sacred Mountain Becomes Script for Cheap Hollywood Horror Flick

China Report #3 - Terracotta Warriors
History's Army Raises Questions About Today's Government

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China Photo Feature
Check Out My Photos from China this May at Flickr - See "Sets" on Right Side of the Flickr
The Seattle Times Runs One of My Pictures
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China Report #4 - The Great Wall
Two Hikes On Unrestored Sections Offer More Adventure Than the Tourist Zone

China Report #5 - Xi'an
The Largest, Most Important City You've Never Heard Of

China Report #6 - Shanghai
China's New York City

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Pollution & Sports Extra
What You Can't See in Shanghai Is What You Can See at Wall Mart and On Wall Street
Is Pollution An Olympic Sport?
The Algae Olympics
Pollution Threatens Olympic Games
All-Oregon 800K team for USA in Olympics
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China Report #6 - Shanghai

China's New York City

Shanghai. The name itself conjures up visions of old China, back alley hustlers, shady saloons full of sailors from all over the world, sepia colored photos of dock workers, opium dens and black market transactions. At one point in history, that all was more true than fantasy. But today, Shanghai is the quintessential modern Chinese city - symbolic of the nation's economic rise and aspirations of modernity. If Beijing is China's Washington, DC, Xian its Boston and Guangzhou its, say, Chicago and Hong Kong its L.A., well then Shanghai is its New York City. Only it literally has twice as many people and twice as many skyscrapers! 

Another unavoidable thing about Shanghai is that it has spectacularly polluted skies. See my post about that here. After returning from our trip to China in May I learned that 20 percent of China's GDP is produced within, like, a 20 mile radius of central Shanghai. With China being the number one producer economy in the world, this easily explains why you can't see most the buildings on a sunny day because of how thick the smog lays in.

None the less, the city offers some really first rate things to see. Here are some:

The Bund

This is the "old side" section of the city next to the river. You'll notice when visiting that the big buildings lining the riverside look distinctly European and of a certain vintage. Well, that's because indeed they are British built a hundred years ago or so. (See picture at left.) The British

won the "concession" of the land here as a result of them defeating the Chinese in the various Opium Wars. They proceeded to build grand hotels, office buildings and - most of all - banks. The Brits turned Shanghai into Asia's leading financial markets and trade ports.

Today, in a bit of double-irony, those former British banks each fly communist China's national flag or sport a red star (for example, see picture at right). It's a double irony, because some of these buildings so obviously marked with communist iconography are, in fact, now banks, fancy hotels, restaurants and spas. So, the more things change, the more they stay the same.

Anyway, the grand walkway up and down The Bund (see picture at left) is fun with great views (even with smog) of the old buildings and across the river to the new, gleaming Pudong section. At night, things go to another level with Pudong skyscrapers lighting up with massive video on their sides, street performers on the walkway and ships made of nothing but bow, stern, engine and a  huge video screen plying the river showing advertisements to the masses. 

Oh, and there are some really good restaurants encrusted on top of some of these old buildings. We went to M On The Bund for a spectacular meal and view.

Old Town

Just up the river from The Bund is the old town. One of the distinguishing traits of the old town is how it keeps shrinking as it's destroyed to free up land to build office buildings, malls, parking lots and new freeways. But, what's left is truly a step back in time with a labyrinth of narrow streets and everyday life happening right in front of you. Sure, a lot of tourists go to the old town markets for great shopping and eating, and we did too, but if you ever find yourself in Shanghai and the old town still exists, I recommend deliberately trying to get lost in it. 

Peek into the windows to see men playing dominoes, see how people buy their daily supply of food, dodge bicycles, soak up the smells and the "this is how it's been forever" atmosphere. (See picture at right.) Take yourself back to a little bit of that old Shanghai you might fantasize about. You ain't gonna see that anywhere else in Shanghai - or most big Chinese cities any more. When you're done, find your way to the Nanxiang Steamed Bun restaurant and do yourself a favor you'll always thank yourself for - order the dumpling lunch.

Pudong

In a city full of new construction, this is the most modern section. From our experience, there isn't a lot to do here compared to the rest of the city. (Picture at left is a view of Pudong from The Bund.) But, there are a few exceptions to that rule. First, if you arrive into Shanghai by air into the Pudong Airport, you MUST take the Maglev train from the airport into the city - 

arriving in Pudong where you can easily take a taxi to your final destination. "Maglev" is short for magnetic levitation, the the Maglev train is a virtual rocket as it pushed along at 431 km per hour as it floats over a rail, suspended a few inches in the air on an bed of opposing magnetic forces. The whole 20 km trip takes maybe six minutes. 

Another exception is the Grand Hyatt at the top of the Jin Mao Tower. (See left tower in picture to the right). After two weeks of eating great Asian food and living life "closer to the ground," we were craving a five star evening and we got it 87 floors up at the Hyatt. Drinks at the bar, a wonderful steak dinner, piano bar, magician and a fortune teller all were on the agenda, all first class and all with a view of the city.

The other must related to Pudong in my book is you have to take the "Shanghai Tourist Tunnel" from one side of the river to the other. Taking you under the water in a tram via a tunnel, the trip is as close as you're going to get to a psychedelic experience while NOT on psychedelic drugs. Very bazaar, but fun. Puppets, flashing lights and weirdness abound. (See picture at left.)

French Concession

The British weren't the only country that won concessions from the weak and defeated Chinese empire in the late 19th century. The French were in on the act too. Today, the French Concession is a breezy, tree lined section of the city with low rise buildings housing art galleries, fashion boutiques, great restaurants and bars. Suffice it to say, it's worth going to for an evening's entertainment. We headed straight for Simply Thai for a wonderful change-up from the Chinese food we'd been eating for most our trip.

Shanghai Museum 

Finally, lest you think Shanghai is only about shopping, eating and architecture, check out the Shanghai Museum. Stationed in a park encircled by the numerous elevated freeways, the museum stands as a beacon of culture in a seemingly Blade Runner world of Shanghai.

The exhibits within are a concise, not boring and comprehensive view into Chinese history. Galleries feature ceramics, painting, furniture, ethnic groups, jade, coins, bronze, sculpture and whatever special exhibits are there at the time. (Picture at left is of a ceramic warrior in the museum.) Oh yeah, and the other thing they have there is a great shop where you can buy a guaranteed high quality vase. Sure, it's a bit expensive, but unlike the markets out on the streets, here you know you're getting quality - both in its composition and artistry, as well as authentic designs. We bought a wonderful Qing Dynasty vase here and love it.

So, to sum up...Shanghai is a far cry from the city of your imagination. It is indeed China's New York City. It offers the glitz, the glamor, the history, neighborhoods and the culture while serving as Exhibit A for where China is going - or hopes to go.

China Report #5 - Xi'an

The Largest, Most Important Chinese City You’ve Never Heard Of

Everybody knows China is one of the most populated countries in the world. With 1.3 billion people, it's hardly a secret that China is home to some of the largest cities in the world. And, with their economy booming, their cities are growing bigger than ever. When contemplating this immensity, we often think of the teeming masses in places like Beijing, Hong Kong, Shanghai or Canton (now known as Guangzhou).

However, one city that most people - including myself until a few months ago - overlook or don't even know about is Xi'an (pronounced shee-an). A city of more than eight million, it's larger than virtually every city in the United States. 

Many tourists come to Xi'an as a home base to visit the nearby site of the buried terracotta warrior army of the first Chinese emperor - Qin Shi Huang. And indeed, Xi'an was this emperor's capital. See my post on the warriors here. However, there's a lot more going on in Xi'an that visitors ought to take into consideration. As the ancient capital of the country and as the start/finish line of the legendary Silk Road between Europe and Asia throughout the ages, the city has a diverse and developed culture worth checking out. Additionally, Xi'an is on the move in a modern sense too. It's an economic boom town, so in addition to seeing glimpses of China's past, you'll have no choice to be immersed in it's present.

Here are a few of the highlights of Xi'an based on our own experience there in May...

City Center

The old city center of Xi'an is surrounded by a massive wall  (see picture below, left) that traditionally protected citizens, the emperor and the capital of the ancient Chinese empire. For today's visitor, this wall offers not only a great look into history, but also a chance for...bike riding! 

Yep, you can rent a bicycle and ride around the top of the wall. We did this and I highly recommend it. If you want to leave the pedaling to someone else, you can rent a rickshaw and driver (see picture below right). In either case, it's a unique experience, fun and you get to see some things you might not normally. For example, peer over the wall at any point

 and you'll be looking down into courtyards, temples, back yards and parks to observe how the locals live, play and pray. You also get a good look at the modern city radiating out from the walls into the countryside.  At a leisurely pace, one lap around the rectangular wall took us about 1.5 hours.

Also in the old city center is the hussling, bussling and well preserved "Muslim quarter." The city developed a sizable Muslim population because of its promenence as the start and finish of the Silk Road. Today, the neighborhood where many lived is now a twisty, turny labrith of streets, markets, restuarants, shops and more. And the food's good too. 

We had lunch in a traditional restaurant that served an hardy meat soup. Before the arrival of the broth, you are instructed to crumble up a piece of the local flat bread into your bowl. Then, when the good stuff comes, the bread soaks up the flavors and you have an delicious concoction to savor. After lunch, we checked out the market where we bought some small paintings, Mao watches, paint brushes and other items.

Still sticking in the old city, check out the large plaza at the Bell Tower...especially at night. This is the "Times Square" of Xi'an and a good vantage point to watch the locals go by and contemplate the moderization and westernization of China. But more about that in a minute.

Finally regarding the old city, we stayed at the Bell Tower Hotel and you should too. It's a very well located and appointed hotel that caters to westerners and was one of the nicest places we stayed on our entire trip. After several days biking, hiking and guest house living in the countryside beyond Xi'an, it was a welcome refuge.

Giant Wild Goose Pagoda

One of the places we went "in" Xi'an, but outside the old city was the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, a large Buddist complex built for the many travelers traditionally coming into Xi'an over the Silk Road. The central feature is a large tower (see picture at right) that has been built, destroyed and re-built over the centuries. I enjoyed our visit here, but for most people it's probably worth only a short visit and walk around. Credit REI Adventures, however, with including a cultural/religious site in the itenerary.

Also to note, if you have time, go to the Shaanxi History Museum in Xi'an before you go to the terracotta warriors outside the city as the museum gives you good context for what you'll see.

The People

First off, it must be said that everybody we met in Xi'an was extremely nice, glad we were there and full of advice, stories or good cheer. Howerver, I have to also say that I thought the people watching in Xi'an was the best of the entire trip. Why? Well, my perspective is that here in Xi'an the desperation to be western, to be modern and to be "of the world" is more palpable and more evident. Yet, despite desires...they're not quite there yet. So, that makes for some interesting fashion statements, questionable hairdoos, and more. For example, the guy weaking a jacket with "Jonny Boy Rocket Fun" printed on the back, or an middle aged woman wearing a bright yellow t-shirt emblazoned with "This Bud's for You!" or the young Chinese Don Johnson at the bar - complete with 80s blazer, t-shirt, shades, slacks, no socks and boat shoes. That kind of stuff is everywhere in Xi'an - on the streets, in the shops, at the market...everywhere. Also, Kentucy Fried Chicken is HUGE there - packed at most all hours while Starbucks sits empty at 7 a.m. on a workday when back home it'd be packed to the rafters at that hour. 

Also, a note for the future, I have an idea for a short story based on observations similar to the above at a local watering hole in central Xi'an known infamously as...The Moonkey Bar. But that's a story for another time. 

Not to belabor the point, but I think with rising incomes and more access to western styles and pop culture (but not necessarily our politics), many Chinese crave to westernize their lifestyles - or what they perceive a western lifestyle to include. You can see this transformation happening right before your eyes in boomtown Xi'an, and because we all are interested to know how the Chinese will change as their economy develops, I would rank simple observation of the populous as one of the highlights of visiting this city.

And that brings me back full circle on Xi'an. It's probably the biggest Chinese city that most people haven't heard of. But they should. Like many places in China, Xi'an offers both a look backwards into history and forwards into the future. Both just seem more keenly evident and clearly urgent in Xi'an than any other place we visited.